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Clothing · Hats · Before about 1960

Vintage Phipps Tailored Hats Cream Woven Hat with Red Feathers and Veil, with Felt and Crochet Rose Corsages

Quick identification

This is a vintage Phipps Tailored Hats ladies hat: a small, close-fitting oval hat covered in cream open basket-weave straw cloth, with a cluster of bright red dyed feathers at one side, black veil netting and a raspberry pink faille lining with a black lace pattern. A cream woven oval label inside reads TAILORED HATS, PHIPPS, LONDON PARIS, NEW YORK. The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston lists C. M. Phipps, Inc. as an American hat maker active about the 1890s to 1950s. No year is marked, though the style suggests the 1940s to 1950s. It was photographed with two separate unmarked rose corsages.

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About this item

Who made Phipps Tailored Hats

Inside this hat, the label names Phipps, with the line Tailored Hats and the cities London, Paris and New York. The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston holds a 1920s cloche by C. M. Phipps, Inc. and lists the firm as American, active from about the 1890s to the 1950s. Other hats with the same Tailored Hats Phipps label turn up on the resale market.

Detailed visual description

A cream woven Phipps hat with a red feather cluster

This vintage Phipps Tailored Hats ladies hat is a small, close-fitting oval hat covered in cream, an oatmeal or natural straw shade, open basket-weave fabric that looks like woven straw cloth or a linen-type weave. Its main trim is a thick cluster of red, a bright cherry red, dyed feathers mounted at one side so they spill out from under the folded edge. Two separate millinery flower corsages were photographed with it: one of flocked felt roses and one of crocheted roses on plaid ribbon.

The crown is smooth and rounded on top, with the cream fabric folded into a turned band along one edge and a small tuck of the same fabric at the end. Long, glossy and narrow, like dyed hackle feathers, the red feathers have darker wine-red tips and fan out from the side toward the back. Along one edge sits a narrow strip of small black, a flat coal black, square tiles set side by side like a mosaic band. On the felt corsage, layered petals in orange, a rust or terracotta shade, and red, a deep burgundy, have a dusty suede-like flocked surface, with green serrated fabric leaves and a green wrapped wire stem. In the second corsage, two cream crocheted roses, one with a faux pearl pin head at its center, are tied with a red, white and blue plaid ribbon bow and backed with cream tulle, a green velvet leaf, green plastic leaves and a spray of small cream paper or fabric blossoms.

Inside, the crown is lined with pink, a deep raspberry pink, ribbed faille or grosgrain fabric printed or flocked with a black lace pattern of flowers and leaves, and a red band with gold stitching runs around the inner edge. A black velvet band rims the opening, and black veil netting lies over the lining. The maker's label is stitched inside the crown under the netting: a cream woven tape with brown lettering inside an oval outline. TAILORED HATS curves along the top of the oval in small block capitals, PHIPPS runs across the middle in larger spaced block capitals under a small leaf or scroll motif, and LONDON PARIS and NEW YORK sit in two bands at the bottom.

On this copy: the hat is about one adult hand across (not measured). Yellow-brown water stains cross the cream fabric of the crown, and the edges are frayed with loose threads. The black veil netting is torn and shredded, and the black tile strip is chipped with one loose clear square resting on it. Its feathers are full but ruffled. Lint sits in the petals of the dusty felt rose corsage, and the crocheted roses are lightly soiled with a few dark threads caught on them.

  • Type: Small fitted ladies hat with a side feather mount
  • Maker: Phipps (woven label: TAILORED HATS / PHIPPS / LONDON PARIS / NEW YORK)
  • Hat fabric: Cream, oatmeal or natural straw shade, open basket-weave straw cloth
  • Feathers: Red, bright cherry red, dyed feathers with darker tips
  • Lining: Pink, deep raspberry, faille with black lace pattern; black velvet edge
  • Veil: Black veil netting over the lining
  • Label: Cream woven oval label with brown block capitals, inside crown
  • Corsage 1: Rust and burgundy flocked felt roses, green leaves, wire stem
  • Corsage 2: Cream crocheted roses, faux pearl pin, red, white and blue plaid ribbon
  • This copy: About one hand across; water stains, frayed edges, torn veil, chipped tile strip
Text, exactly as printed
Hat label (woven, partly covered by netting):
TAILORED HATS
PHIPPS
LONDON PARIS
NEW YORK

Corsages:
No marks seen
Also known as
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  • how old is my Phipps hat
  • small cream woven straw hat with red feathers on the side
  • vintage hat with red feather cluster and pink lace lining
  • vintage felt rose corsage rust and burgundy
  • vintage crocheted rose corsage with plaid ribbon and pearl pin
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  • 1940s 1950s ladies hat with red feathers and veil
Where to buy it

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Questions

About the Phipps Tailored Hats Straw Hat

What does the Tailored Hats Phipps label in my hat mean?

It is the maker's label. Phipps hats carry a woven label reading TAILORED HATS, PHIPPS, with LONDON PARIS and NEW YORK. The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston lists C. M. Phipps, Inc. as an American hat maker active about the 1890s to 1950s.

How old is a vintage Phipps hat with feathers and a veil?

This one is not dated. The maker's active years and the small fitted shape with veil netting and a feather mount point to roughly the 1940s to 1950s, but that is a style estimate, not a marked date.

How do I identify vintage millinery corsages like these?

Look at the materials and backing. These two are unmarked: one is flocked felt roses with fabric leaves on a wire stem, the other is crocheted roses with a faux pearl pin, plaid ribbon, tulle and small paper or fabric blossoms. Nothing shows they were made for this hat.

Sources
  1. Owner's photos
  2. Cloche Hat, C. M. Phipps, Inc., Museum of Fine Arts, Houston
  3. C. M. Phipps, Inc. objects, MFAH